
Some may ask, why Panama?
It all began when a dear and loyal customer, Mary Green, gave us a book called God in a Cup by Michaele Weissman. The title of the book comes from when Vermont coffee buyer Don Holly tasted Geisha coffee from Panama and said the coffee was so transporting he could see “the face of God in a cup.”
Geisha is a rare and exotic coffee cultivar which has developed huge excitement in the specialty coffee industry. Geisha coffee comes from Boquete, one of the main coffee growing regions of Panama. Flat Black currently offers coffee from Panama from a farm called Casa Ruiz, run by Maria Ruiz. Excited that we had a connection in Panama, we decided to pack up our bags and head to the farm to meet Maria see for ourselves what the Geisha buzz was all about…
After an eight hour drive through the scorching, barren low lands of Panama, the mountains of Boquete rose before us lush and emerald green. The climate, terrain and ecosystem of this coffee growing region are noticeably different from coastal Panama. Nestled in a valley in the shadow of Volcan Baru, Boquete’s unique microclimate creates a near-perfect environment for world-class specialty coffee.
Hacienda Casa Ruiz was founded in 1920 and has become a leader in the Panamanian specialty coffee industry. Casa Ruiz has several farms in Boquete, four of which are certified organic. Many of the coffees, such as the Panamaria, Berlina, and Panamonte have received awards and acknowledgements such as the “Best of Panama,” SCAA-US Cupping Pavilion and an international award from the Paris Gourmet food show.
Upon arrival at Casa Ruiz, we met owner Maria Ruiz, who upholds nearly three generations of tradition at Hacienda Casa Ruiz. Maria Ruiz has several degrees, including a PhD, and has delved into an exciting project that involves educating the Indigenous Nogbe Bukle people in the use and implementation of sustainable farming methods. Additionally, she is developing a literacy program in their native language as well as in Spanish.

We toured the entire farm of Hacienda Café Ruiz, starting with the new plantings then moving on to the de-pulping tanks, dryers, sun-drying patios, huskers, sorters, and finally to the roasting and processing division of the plant. A gracious host, Maria then invited us into her home for a private cupping to sample some of the farm’s specialty coffees. Though not yet harvesting it themselves (the trees are still young) Maria did have some of the famed Geisha on hand to let us try.
From an e-mail Dave sent to the company: “Just tasted Geisha. It blew my whole mind away and took my mouth and mind to another level….like nothing you have ever tasted.”

It certainly was a transporting experience. The Geisha beans produced the most astonishing cup of coffee we have ever experienced. Geisha produces an abundance of notes ranging from floral, apricot, honey to bergamot tea. Up front it has a bursting lemon acidity perfectly integrated with the intense flavors and aromas. The light honey and caramel wrapped around our cheeks as the incredibly smooth medium body slipped down our throats. Yet the real beauty of this coffee is the way these various qualities dance about on your tongue. There was a perfect tango happening in our mouths that left us with a craving for more.
Like joining in an irresistible dance, we joined the craze surrounding Geisha. One sip was not enough! We packed up a load of green beans and are now proud to say that you too can taste one of the most amazing coffees in the world, roasted to perfection at Flat Black.
David and Jennifer House, Co-founders, Flat Black Coffee Company